Whether it's Vetements' repetitive use of 90's word art or Raf Simons' nostalgic references, youth has become a major concept of fashion to place an aim of shaking up the system. With an appetite of the adolescence, both fast and slow fashion has adapted to the evolving notion of the industry and it's cross generational consumers, highlighting the intangibility and power that the youth hold.
Creatives such as Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane and labels like Anti Social Social Club are wedded with the idea of subcultural codes and rebelling against societies expectations hence their emphasis on liquidised luxury. With a desire to stay young, the capitalist industry see's this particular inspiration as a play on the designers past by creating something they didn't necessarily have in their youth- due to the social movements happening informal pieces like tee's, hoodies and sweatpants, have a purpose for consumers today. With brands pulling out of the traditional fashion calendar, collections have become less seasonal, as clothes become more practical and downplayed, as apposed to what was once a much more luxurious industry where clothes were more inspirational and less accessible.
Lou Stoppard, Editor of ShowStudio curated an exhibition in London earlier this year, based upon fashion's heavy interest and portrayal of teenagers. Entitled 'Mad About the Boy' Stoppard explains "The fluidity and possibility of the teenage years seems to unite fashion’s obsession with the boy: sparked, perhaps by a strange belief in the precious genius of youth – of a time of perceived infinite opportunity, spontaneity and creative freedom. Designers young and old return to the same themes, constructing, rehashing and shaping the dream male, season in season out.” There's a desperation to be different and dissecting brands such as Vetements and their take on the culture of youth questions their ideologies on whether it's just a covert way of repetitive work or is it actually a new wave of young energy?